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Australian Made & Owned Business

Can You Motorise Existing Roller Blinds in Australia?

Yes — most roller blinds can be motorised.

You don’t need to replace your blinds. You just need the right motor for your tube.

That's where most people get it wrong.

A motor can fit inside the tube, but if it’s not matched properly, it will spin and the blind won’t lift.

Start Here

Identify your roller blind tube to see exactly which motors will fit.

Roller blind with chain showing standard tube used for motorisation.

How to Choose the Right Motor for Your Blinds

Motorising your blinds is simpler than most people think. Once you identify your tube, everything else falls into place.

🧩 Step 1 — Identify Your Tube

This determines which motors will actually fit your blind.

⚙️ Step 2 — Match the Motor

Choose a motor that’s confirmed to suit your tube and blind size.

👍 Step 3 — Install & Set Up

Replace the chain mechanism and set your limits.

Identify Your Roller Blind Tube Type

To motorise an existing roller blind, the motor must match the tube it installs inside.

Below are the most common roller blind tube types used in Australian made blinds.

Select your tube to see the motors confirmed to fit.

Acmeda S45 Light 45mm roller blind tube internal profile

Acmeda S45 Light

A lightweight 45mm tube used in smaller roller blinds. Typically suitable for blinds up to around 2.0m wide, depending on fabric weight and drop. A solid upgrade from 38mm tubes, offering better rigidity and smoother operation for motorisation.

Outside Diameter: 43mm

Acmeda S45 STD 45mm roller blind tube internal profile

Acmeda S45 STD

The most common tube used in modern roller blinds. Provides excellent strength and consistent performance for everyday window sizes. Typically suitable for blinds up to around 2.4m wide, depending on fabric weight and drop. A reliable all rounder for both chain driven and motorised blinds.

Outside Diameter: 44mm

Acmeda S45 HD heavy duty 45mm roller blind tube internal profile

Acmeda S45 HD

A thick-wall version of the S45 designed for large blinds, heavy fabrics and long drops. Its reinforced structure reduces deflection and maintains stability across wider spans. Typically used for blinds up to around 3.0m wide, depending on fabric type and installation.

Outside Diameter: 49mm

Acmeda S60 60mm roller blind tube internal profile

Acmeda S60

A large diameter tube engineered for extra wide blinds and architectural window spans. The S60 provides exceptional rigidity and is ideal for installations where maximum tube stability is required. Commonly used for blinds in the 3.0–4.0m+ width range, depending on fabric weight and drop.

Outside Diameter: 60mm

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S40

An older Acmeda tube profile still found in many Australian homes. Suitable for small to medium blinds and typically used for widths up to around 2.0–2.4m, depending on fabric weight and drop. A common choice in pre-RB09 systems.

Outside Diameter: 39.4mm

s38-STD.png

38mm STD

A strong, thick-wall 38mm tube used in many locally manufactured chain operated blinds. Typically suitable for blinds up to around 1.8–2.1m wide, depending on fabric weight. Provides adequate rigidity for smaller blinds when motorised.

Outside Diameter: 38.1mm

50mm heavy duty roller blind tube internal profile

HD 50

A heavy-duty tube designed for wide blinds, heavier fabrics, and long drops. Offers excellent stiffness across larger openings and is commonly used for blinds in the 3.0–4.0m+ range, depending on fabric density and installation requirements.

Outside Diameter: 50.8mm

Acmeda S35 35mm roller blind tube internal profile

Acmeda S35 STD & HD

Used in older roller blind systems before the introduction of Acmeda’s modern S40 and S45 tubes. S35 can still be motorised on very small blinds (typically under 1.2 metres wide), but because it was designed for earlier generation systems, it is standard practice to upgrade to a newer tube profile for reliable performance on wider blinds.

Outside Diameter: 33 & 34mm

L45 45mm roller blind tube internal profile

L45

A true 45mm round roller blind tube commonly found in imported and some locally manufactured blinds. Although it looks similar in size to Acmeda S45 tubes, the internal profile is completely different. L45 uses a round internal shape with key slots rather than the Acmeda spline system.

Because of this, it requires a different crown and drive and is not compatible with standard S45 motor adaptors.

Outside Diameter: 45mm

What Next?

If you''ve found your tube above, click it to see the exact motors that fit.

👉No guesswork. No returns.

If you couldn't match your tube, keep reading below.

👉We'll show you what to do next.

Not every tube is suitable for motorisation — here’s what to check

Tubes That Need Replacing Before Motorising

Not every roller blind tube is engineered to handle the torque of a motor. A simple rule is:

In most cases, tubes with a wall thickness under 1 mm are not rigid enough for reliable motorisation. These lighter tubes were designed for chain operation only. When paired with a motor, they can twist, deflect, or lose limits over time, especially on wider blinds.

If your blind doesn’t match one of the approved tube types above, it should be replaced before motorisation.

Tubes that require replacement include:

  • Thin wall retail tubes
    Common in off the shelf blinds. Their aluminium wall thickness is typically 0.5–0.8 mm, which cannot support motor torque.

  • 25–28 mm tubes
    Often used in imported or budget blinds. Their small diameter and thin walls make them unsuitable for motorising.

  • 32–34 mm tubes with no internal profile
    While they may look similar to premium tubes from the outside, they do not have the internal structure required to lock in a crown & drive effectively.

  • Legacy Acmeda S35 tubes wider than 1.2 metres
    Suitable only for very small blinds. For blinds over 1.2 m wide, upgrading to an S40 or S45 tube is standard practice for reliable motor operation.

  • Any tube that does not match one of the recognised profiles above

Upgrading the tube ensures:

  • smooth, accurate motor operation

  • correct limit positions

  • no twisting or sagging under load

  • long-term durability of the system

  • correct fitment for Automate and Somfy motors

Upgrade to a Motor-Ready Tube Kit

  • We supply complete S45 Tube Kits, precision cut to size and matched with RB09 brackets and idler, ready for motorisation.

  • A typical 2.1 m tube upgrade is only $55.35, and when ordering your motor at the same time, all shipping is bundled into one low rate.

Not Sure Which Tube You Have? Email Us Your Photos

If you couldn’t match your tube above, just email us a couple of quick photos and the outside diameter.
We’ll confirm your tube type, tell you whether it can be motorised, and let you know which motors will fit, usually within the same day.
It’s the fastest way to get a 100% accurate answer with no guesswork.

All the info we need is already pre-filled in the email, just hit the button and attach your photos.

Tube Identification FAQ

These quick checks help us confirm your tube accurately the first time.

Do I need to remove the blind?

Yes. Remove the blind from the brackets and take off the non-chain end (idler) so the tube end is clearly visible.

What do I need to measure?

Measure the outside diameter of the tube.

What if my tube doesn’t match the profiles above?

It will likely require upgrading before motorisation. Most residential upgrades move to an S45 system for reliable performance.

Do off the shelf or budget blinds work?

Some do, but many use thin-wall tubes (under 1 mm) that aren’t suitable for motorisation.

Why We Check Your Tube First

Every roller blind motor needs to match the tube it sits inside.


If the tube type isn’t identified correctly, the motor might slip, stall, or not turn the blind at all. That leads to returns, frustration and wasted time.

Checking your tube first means:

  • you get the right motor the first time

  • your blind runs smoothly and quietly

  • the install is easy and stress-free

  • there are no compatibility surprises

 

We specialise in retrofitting motorised roller blinds across Australia and have motorised thousands of existing blinds.

We work with the most reliable systems on the market , Automate and Somfy, and every recommendation we give is based on long term performance, not guesswork.

Want to understand how motorisation actually works?

You don’t need to know this to choose a motor, but if you’re curious, here’s a simple breakdown of how the tube, crown, drive and brackets all work together.

How a Motor Actually Turns a Roller Blind

A roller blind motor sits inside your tube and turns it using two key parts, the crown and the drive.

 

When the crown and drive match your tube, everything works smoothly. If they don’t, the motor will spin but the blind won’t move.

Your existing brackets often work fine too, as long as the motor head fits the bracket shape so the motor sits straight and centred.

The Crown & Drive — The Most Important Parts of Retrofitting

The Drive

The drive connects to the end of the motor and locks into the internal profile of your tube. This is the piece that actually turns the blind.

The Crown

The crown sits around the motor and inside the tube, keeping everything aligned. It stops the motor from twisting or sagging inside the tube during operation.

If either one is wrong:

  • the motor spins

  • but the tube doesn’t

  • and the blind doesn’t move

This is the number one cause of “the motor is broken” complaints, when the real issue is simply a mismatched crown/drive.

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Why Tube Size and Internal Profile Matter

All roller blind tubes look round from the outside.
Inside, the story is different. Tubes can have:

  • flats

  • ridges

  • grooves

  • cut-outs

  • multi-step profiles

Your motor’s crown and drive must match both:

  1. Tube diameter, and

  2. Tube’s internal profile

A perfect match = reliable operation.
A poor match = slipping, stalling, grinding or no movement at all.

Brackets & Idlers — The Final Piece of the Puzzle

Your existing brackets usually work perfectly if they match your blind’s tube system.

The only time you need to think about brackets is when replacing the motor-side bracket.
If that happens, it’s best to replace:

  • both brackets

  • and the idler

This is because brackets and idlers are designed as a matched set.
Mixing old and new can cause alignment issues that affect smooth operation.

It’s not about strength, it’s about keeping the motor and tube perfectly straight.

🧩 That’s How the Hardware Works

Once you understand how the crown, drive, tube and brackets work together, motorising an existing roller blind becomes straightforward, as long as you start with the correct tube type.

From here, the only remaining decisions are:

  • How much lifting force (torque) your blind requires

  • How you want to power the motor

  • How you want to control it

Let’s look at those next.

🔧 What Does Motor Torque Actually Do?

Motor torque (Nm) refers to the motor’s lifting force.

Higher torque helps lift:

  • Heavier fabrics

  • Longer drops

  • Blinds with greater fabric weight

However, torque does not increase tube strength.

If a blind is very wide and the tube begins to flex or deflect, installing a higher torque motor will not solve the problem.

In those cases, the correct solution is upgrading to a stronger tube profile.

Torque affects lifting performance.
Tube strength affects structural stability.

Both must be considered when motorising an existing roller blind.

🔌 Rechargeable vs 240V Motors

Roller blind motors are typically powered in one of two ways: rechargeable or 240V hardwired.

Rechargeable motors contain an internal lithium battery and are ideal for retrofitting existing blinds. They do not require an electrician and are usually recharged every 6–12 months, depending on usage.

240V hardwired motors are connected to mains power and installed by a licensed electrician. They are commonly used in new builds, renovations, short term rentals or higher cycle applications where ongoing charging isn’t preferred.

The correct choice depends on your installation type, usage frequency, and access to power.

Each compatible tube page will guide you on which power type is typically used for that tube.

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📡 How Roller Blind Motors Connect (RF vs Zigbee)

All motors turn the tube the same way.
The difference is how you control them.

Most roller blind motors use one of two wireless systems:

  • RF (Radio Frequency)

  • Zigbee

🔘 RF (Radio Frequency — Automate ARC & Somfy RTS)

RF stands for Radio Frequency — a direct wireless signal (commonly 433 MHz in Australia) used to send commands from a remote or hub to the motor.

  • Works straight out of the box with a remote

  • Does not require Wi-Fi or internet

  • Reliable, simple, and widely used

👉 Systems like Automate ARC and Somfy RTS both use RF.

You can also make RF motors “smart” by adding a hub:

  • Control via app

  • Voice control (Google, Alexa, Siri)

  • Automations and timers

If you’re unsure how hubs work, read:

👉 Why Some Smart Homes Need More Than One Hub (And Why That’s Not a Problem)

🔘 Zigbee

RF stands for Radio Frequency — a direct wireless signal (commonly 433 MHz in Australia) used to send commands from a remote or hub to the motor.

  • Works straight out of the box with a remote

  • Does not require Wi-Fi or internet

  • Reliable, simple, and widely used

👉 Systems like Automate ARC and Somfy RTS both use RF.

You can also make RF motors “smart” by adding a hub:

  • Control via app

  • Voice control (Google, Alexa, Siri)

  • Automations and timers

If you’re unsure how hubs work, read:

👉 RF vs Zigbee for Smart Blinds: What’s the Difference?

🤔 Which Should You Choose?

  • Want something simple and reliable that works every time? → RF (Automate or Somfy RTS)

  • Building a full smart home system? → Zigbee

The motor still fits the same tube — the difference is just how it communicates.

🔌 Using Zigbee?

If you're planning to integrate your blinds into a Zigbee based smart home, make sure your motor matches your hub ecosystem.

For example:

  • Somfy Zigbee motors require the Somfy TaHoma hub

  • They do not pair with Smart Life or Tuya hubs

Always confirm hub compatibility before ordering.

✅ That’s Everything

Motorising an existing roller blind comes down to one thing: identifying the correct tube.

Once the tube is confirmed:

  • The motor slides straight in

  • The crown and drive match correctly

  • Your brackets usually remain the same

  • Power and control are simply personal preference

There’s no guesswork when the tube is identified first.

Select your tube type below and we’ll show you exactly which motors fit.

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